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Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Pani Tula and Nuani Tradition....Assamese Wedding Rituals
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Saturday, December 12, 2009
Thank You Speak Bindas
I was interviewed by Devang Vibhakar for his popular site speakbindas.com.Please visit the interview(click here) and let me know what you think of it.Have a great weekend ......all of you !!!Thank you !
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Juran .....Assamese Wedding Rituals
The next time when we meet i am going to tell you about Pani tula and the main marriage ceremony...till than take care. ....
Blog Updated : Received this as a comment by reader Indrani Bordoloi .She says
Dear Indian Yarn,
In Assamese Culture white or off-white golden Baize mekhela -sador has very very significant role. Traditionally a married woman prefares to wear a white gold zari work assam silk mekhela sador only during anu Jurun ceremony of any bodies marriage. While again The Bridal Trousseau should be in white+gold combo for the actual wedding even I guess Assam is the only state where bride and bridegroom both wears the white golden costume for their actual wedding. Traditionally is believed that its glitters the colors like goldenish yellow which is a color of Vishnu or Krishna... typically Assamese follows Vaishnasim. interestingly in their wedding day the bride and the groom treats as Price and Princess also white reflects the symbol of purity and freshness significantly welcoming to their new life.
Well we have similarities wd Bengali Wedding becoz geographically again its our neighboring state.Like in Bengli have Kaal-ratri after the actual wedding we have Bahi-Biya where after the wedding when bride comes to grooms house the next day for the whole day nobody can see each others face, for the rest of the day or the next day when the Khuba-Khubuni will take place (Reception at grooms place)the following night is call Subha-Ratri or Madhu-milaan or 1st night :) Typically Yes the story of Beula-Lakhindaar has been believed that how Lakhindar dies after the snake bite on their 1st nyt and how Beula had go through tremendous pain and struggle to return his life back from Death God in West Bengal so being a neighboring state Assam also got influenced by the mythology and also it has been believed that after the wedding if none of the bride and groom can't see each other for one whole day the chemistry sparks basically in arranged marriages and they eagerly waits for the first night where a understandable and compromising life can ahead with love and care.
Putting vermilion into brides forehead by MIL is again has significant in Assamese tradition only instead of the groom the grooms mother puts vermilion on brides forehead or some times in absence of MIL any elderly lady do that (aunts ~Grooms) significantly before the Jurun Ceremony where all the gift specially cloths and Jewelries suppose to gift the bride along with the bridal trousseau that she has to wear in actual wedding all these items groom has to touch signifies that "not only I'm marrying u ..but with good grace and god and elders I'm accepting u as my wife and my whole family members and other relatives are welcoming u to our home and family. In jurun ceremony groom can't go or no young men are allowed to go accept very few elderly men from grooms side along with the ladies. Jurun is basically si ladies function.
Unlike Saree Mekhela-Sadors are in two pairs.
Kabita well written
Monday, December 7, 2009
Dulor Biya...A Glimpse Of A Traditional Assamese Hindu Kalita Marriage
Monday, November 30, 2009
A thought to the weavers of dreams
Shantaram’s eyes were weary. But he couldn't’t suppress the proud smile on his face. A masterpiece all the way, he thought to himself giving the six-yard wrap one last look. A brush of colour, a touch of tradition and an entire year of laborious craftsmanship... the meticulous weaves had finally taken shape. And it had been worth all the days of working round the clock for Shantaram’s family. After tying the knots on warp and weft threads, dyeing, colouring, weaving and finishing, the beautiful Benarasi Saree was ready. Thus starts an epic novel on the hand loom weavers of the most sought after Saree in the world - The Benarasi..
Often referred to as Benares, Varanasi is the oldest living city in the world. These few lines by Mark Twain say it all: "Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together".Benaras or Varanasi has the pride of being the one of the most famous Hand loom centers in the entire world. In fact it is among the few centers in the world that has painstakingly preserved the ancient tradition of hand weaving. The silk used for the saris was historically imported from China . Several first-millennium Buddhist texts mention Benaras fabrics, giving the indication that Benaras has been the center of fine textile weaving for at least two millennia. The earliest mention of the brocade and zari textiles of Banaras is found in the 19th century. With the migration of silk weavers from Gujarat during the famine of 1603, it is likely that silk brocade weaving started in Banaras in the seventeenth century and developed in excellence during the 18th and 19th century. During the Mughal period, around 14th century, weaving of brocades with intricate designs using gold and silver threads became the specialty of Benaras.
organza (Kora)
Georgette sari
Shatir sari.
Traditional designs of the brocade include jasmine (chameli), thousand emeralds (panna hazar), marigolds (gendabuti), betel nut leaves
(paan buti), diagonal stripes (tircha) and the corner motif with a mango flower (konia). Originally the saris were embellished with threads made from real gold and silver for use by the royal family. In modern times, this has been replaced by gold- and silver-colored thread, making the saris affordable for the general population.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqfPLNmAc1B-MlcNfef3RzCjhvKlGoXYFA6RBRfmMIMA4Aa9Q6De3rbo-wCpeEJ2-3Kmta45HOubYFoYG4SBFfz3ckecPntUPne6fljpVUbZ2kculxvNYLmiLqgMxLJoCKTGyLjVQzEHI/s280/banarasi_brocade_with_floral_weave_sf72.jpg)
Making it affordable for the masses has also led to cheap imitations flooding the market, the power loom capturing the weaver's hand loom, rendering the rich traditional obsolete and endangered.
In a bare village work shed a man sits quietly working on a loom. Look closer and you notice that he is actually sitting in a pit dug into the earthen floor. Hari Ram is middle-aged, non-descript but his fingers weave magic as he works the traditional l pit-loom. A length of pink silk slowly emerges, shimmering with gold threads worked in elaborate mango motifs. He is weaving the traditional Benarasi saree for a bride to wear at her wedding. This silk is the stuff of dreams, of dowries, of rituals and sacred traditions. today thousands of Benaras weavers like Ram have little work and it fetches a pittance. Kumaoli village, where Ram lives, once had 70 looms. Today, there are four left. In dozens of villages around the holy city hand looms lie dismantled, broken, decaying. The women and men who worked the looms have now been forced into manual work to survive.
Then came the power loom. Many rich traders set up power looms and copied the traditional Benarasi designs. A power loom can churn out in one day a saree that may take a weaver 10 days to make on a hand loom. Power loom sarees are light weight and cheaper and most customers cannot tell the difference between power loom and hand loom fabric.![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeSuyyMxGibQp4_A8T-L6yQymCZhQ0c8hAKASK0dprkUUfIM41yQbt0X_i3Km-tgS1vcGzSQHRb8l1rdqrq3g45ILwqL1T01xWWuKWMYsUzoLWntS6YMHof0ShGGGUhyphenhyphenASrSgRYKSlbvg/s280/weavers2.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeSuyyMxGibQp4_A8T-L6yQymCZhQ0c8hAKASK0dprkUUfIM41yQbt0X_i3Km-tgS1vcGzSQHRb8l1rdqrq3g45ILwqL1T01xWWuKWMYsUzoLWntS6YMHof0ShGGGUhyphenhyphenASrSgRYKSlbvg/s280/weavers2.jpg)
A dying art, an incomplete trousseau! There are organizations in support of this art, a movement that has started to protect and cultivate this rich heritage of India. This is a tribute to the craftsman, to the wonder of an age old tradition, to a movement that is forming to bring back a dying art. Let's not blindly buy imitations when the originals are not only priceless for our wardrobes but also ensuring that a weaver's family gets his due!!
The current scernario has the Human Welfare Association (HWA) demanding a separate ministry for the handloom sector. Arguing for the aggressive promotion of the Handloom Cluster Development and Handloom Mark and Silkmark schemes as well as Geographical Indicator protection for Benaras handlooms. HWA has organised public protest by weavers, burning Chinese silk and demanding a ban on dumping. HWA also started the Taana Baana cooperative which provides livelihood to over a thousand weaver families, helping them with credit, design development and marketing support, as well as alternative income generating opportunities. It has a small retail outlet in Sarnath and a turnover of Rs. 70 lakh. But, given the scale of distress among the weavers, Taana Baana is at best a demonstration of what needs to be done for the industry as a whole. |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrNS5LFeBgdntF6NKf0YzD_QwBEw1QyyGnLe47nZmiZWUR9dT-G7rxiPSW2nrh3f51OGnY8U-x8hIP1EcFo7SlRyR7wth59CoOu9rhp8oc4-cQBmqYYbpNX5FiI-ofK_ITSq5t2fAz2M/s280/weavers1.jpg)
Posted by Sujata
Monday, November 23, 2009
Paithani Weave Of Maharashtra
56 kms south of Aurangabad in Maharashtra, on the banks of river Godavari, there is a small town called Paithan.
The town was the capital of the Satavahana empire that ruled the Southern and Central India more than 2000 years ago. And here, during that time, some weavers started creating poetry on silk which came to be known as Paithani.
The artisans would draw threads from pure gold and silver and intricately weave them with gossamer silk threads. The fabric thus created would be so dazzling that it inspired awe in everyone. The Greeks mentioned the silk of Paithan in their records. This precious fabric used to be imported to many countries in exchange of gold and other precious metals and stones by Ancient Indian rulers. Originally meant for the women of the royal household, the Paithani silk sari was the most coveted garment of those times.
2000 years later, sheer dedication of the weavers has kept the Paithani weave still alive in India. Though not drawn from real gold anymore, expensive zari (gold or silver yarn wrapped over polyester yarn) threads, procured from Gujarat and the best quality silk from South India are intricately woven together to create the magical Paithani saris that continue to mesmerize Indian women.
The weavers use the traditional wooden looms. Multiple spindles are used to produce a linear design. The weavers count the threads of the wrap for each part of the pattern and using tiny pins, interlock the silk or gold threads on the weft. The borders have creeper or floral designs. The pallav (the end of the sari) is woven in gold and the patterns are created in silk. Distinctive motifs such as stars, peacocks, mangoes, flowers, petals and coconuts are woven on the pallav.
Weaving Paithani is time consuming. The simplest of the saris take at least a month to complete. The more ornate ones take around three months. The skill has been passed on from father to son for generations. The weaving involves minute detailing and is stressful to the eyes. But the weavers are extremely dedicated to their craft and they toil for months to create exquisite patterns and designs.
A Paithani is expensive and why not...a Paithani is almost like an heirloom. It gets passed on to the daughter from the mother in most Marathi families. The sari is precious not only for the intricate weave of pure silk and gold but also for it's significant role in the culture of Maharashtra. Wearing the Paithani, is almost like wearing a 2000 year old heritage of this glorious country.
Pictures Courtesy: Mangalam Sarees
Palavi Handcrafts
Google Images
POSTED BY APARNA
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Xewali / Shewali : Edible flower in Assamese cuisine (Night Flowering Jasmine)
Xewali phool or the Night-flowering Jasmine (scientific name:Nyctanthes arbor-tristis) is used widely in Assamese cuisine not only because of it's availability but also because of it's various medicinal properties. Assamese cuisine is fascinating to me because of it's inclusion of various herbs and greens-some of which are unique in characteristic.
In this post i am focusing the use of this flower which highlights the folk medicine culture in our food habits ....if somebody is interested an expert advice is suggested.Like many traditional Assamese household we too have this small tree or shrub right in front of our house.
A special thanks to Pramathesh and his friends from the office who helped me know the scientific name of this flower.
Saturday, November 7, 2009
The Indian Saree
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqhJa1FuOgVphy3LsiKOGJaqFq721tyKb0f4tbAsMeJfzZrElILitedO0zm8S986OIU58AmGWumwBGc9p1TS78ZuYPmTQOyyd70q1Lzh-PagVoJWk_P5ivb2sZ-ughXA3CD4yUdYJPp5Q/s280/sari1.jpg)
Friends, let me tell you the tale of the Indian Sari, the 9 yards of unstiched cloth that graces the feminine figure with ardour across our country and even at times on the international ramps.
The etymology of the word sari is from the Sanskrit word 'sati', which means strip of cloth. This evolved into the Prakrit 'sadi' and was later anglicised into sari. There is ample evidence of the sari in the earliest examples of Indian art. Sculptures from the Gandhara, Mathura and Gupta schools (1st- 6th century AD), suggest that the sari in its earlier form was a briefer garment, with a veil, and usually no discernable bodice.
There are also several references to the fact that in Southern part of India the sari had been for a long time one piece of material that served as both skirt and veil, leaving the bosom bare.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnD4OIfs_ePPxe8VvCecF8T0KuNi2goua3RsXRKDZqsjEhphrQJXHEnUEJxJClk01g4vHJFe41aN06Q_13efiwNj9vlOJbmbZBfJJ-L8pNdcqrHZFMWp2loN-z7_fdOhj7RnFbHofENMI/s400/sari6.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh76iBD3VOIPVBFSLI2dOoGJe6_-K9hVf5a71xcO0KXIM4o5bkeje37bHN9_kf3Ato8raE9FAjNyi6uqRDMUq-V3m_vv2v-xiC206BpnjRYN0zdA9KFWJj_bvBT3ZyIXvmT36IwrZTEaY0/s280/sari2.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QWQTmkpvlsEm6TZtg74ish1d6SFvM6uj_0WF_aelMnzvHf2JXp5Cn8aR7oPS1wifoyOitfv9ZGE7VKv1d_6TuEMlsmScli5Pc6cWrptYg0VweMLIle_r8OGoUlvSnYWBFWyijUXN2Rk/s400/sari8.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj403fQnpi4a1KpYtK8Aw6FxcloGfkA07BRkjrQ4NGaLVNwQ5oYamvBSfG1pnbV5yXyRoC0fFgosl-d1s7BUXR48I24PbmW8C-r4Ls4heTdzL6rAR1Xm2UpoWFxyJw7GaflQVSTXq7V29E/s280/sari7.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXdUnLHUZjV74eKRWk7m8fEukwHHTk2HHc4sg2Ss0jlLiIF_Q_x8PAi8ncQWaXIlkIpAzHEg5bh1cLdji04q8_W6AxVUzdpFOeuk6K-XINlWp3UU8bV_BkpbmDJDrMJW97pwmDzC9GO5M/s400/sari9.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB1-uqfdMJogWeazjFMjs__ieUIJnr-oOb-JGlg66bted_9y3OcVFO1deuV7ATPaAYv-KSQ7BPo97VfLRGNETD5qzyjr1aVUSxWlXdkJbiE30-2dL0K2NsSl1-VS4y0QGy0WXDi2vKKJo/s400/sari3.jpg)
The images used in this post are courtesy Paintings of Raja Ravi Varma and also copies of folklore paintings from India.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Phulkari - the embroidery of Punjab
Folk embroidery is one of the most enriching part of the craft heritage of India. Some time back I had written about Kantha, the needle craft of Bengal. This post, I will show case the Phulkari, which literally means the flower craft, of Punjab, one of our most vibrant states.
The origin of Phulkari can be traced to 15th century A.D. The women of Punjab, stitched beautiful dupattas or head scarves for their daughters or the brides of their sons. The cloth primarily used for these shawls or head scarves was home-spun and dyed locally. This strong and long lasting material was cheap and also kept the wearer warm during the bitter cold winters. As the embroidery required counting of threads while doing the straight darn stitches, the coarse weave of the fabric made the task easier.
As these scarves were meant for brides, the base material was generally maroon, scarlet and other red toned bright colours. The thread, which was silk, were yellow, golden or green.These threads, also called pat were brought from Bengal or Kashmir. Motifs were taken from every day life. Flowers were the most common pattern. But so were stars, birds, specially peacocks, animals, and scenes from everyday village life. Intricate geometric patterns were also rather popular.
The Phulkari embroidery is done by straight darn stitches. The stitches are actually worked on the wrong side of the cloth. The pattern takes shape on the right side. The main surface of the stitches are about a quarter or half centimetre long while they are very minute on the reverse. Using long and short darn stitches, women create innumerable designs. Shading and variation are achieved by expertly using horizontal, vertical or diagonal stitches. This gives the illusion of more than one shade when viewed from different angles.
Earlier, the women never traced any patterns on the cloth. They just carefully counted the stitches to create a design. In the absence of a traced pattern, the designs generally passed on from mothers to daughters. Along with the daily chores, a daughter learned phulkari from her mother and contributed to her wedding trousseau.This embroidery was such an integral part of the women of Punjab that one reads or hears of many folklores and songs describe the joys, dreams and yearnings of young girls while embroidering Phulkari.
This craft was never meant for commercial purpose. A Phulkari embroidered shawl was considered to be a gift for young brides. But now this art thrives as cottage industry. There is a decline in Phulkaris embroidered at home. Now, many men have learned this craft and sell Phulkari embroidered bedspreads and curtains, cushion covers and wall hangings. Now Phulkaris are also done on sarees and kurtas and machine embroidered Phulkari dupattas are readily available in the markets at cheaper prices. This obviously has harmed the skilled Phulkari workers. But most importantly, a mother's love for her daughter, which was so painstakingly expressed in the hand crafted designs, has gone completely.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwTGLpntNAECnzWunqPDL1PfsX1r3rYWvqnDaL7GhRouDqZhk5sjekRJIHrv8e6Q78XM-4HFzcqQMNz25Ui0hMa0Dz3oj-BxDzFeJiCNbRFJrs6X0a_BKTYLVk7d97Y9SuynpYHXrrSMo/s400/Delhi%20&%20Amritsar%20136.jpg)
The origin of Phulkari can be traced to 15th century A.D. The women of Punjab, stitched beautiful dupattas or head scarves for their daughters or the brides of their sons. The cloth primarily used for these shawls or head scarves was home-spun and dyed locally. This strong and long lasting material was cheap and also kept the wearer warm during the bitter cold winters. As the embroidery required counting of threads while doing the straight darn stitches, the coarse weave of the fabric made the task easier.
As these scarves were meant for brides, the base material was generally maroon, scarlet and other red toned bright colours. The thread, which was silk, were yellow, golden or green.These threads, also called pat were brought from Bengal or Kashmir. Motifs were taken from every day life. Flowers were the most common pattern. But so were stars, birds, specially peacocks, animals, and scenes from everyday village life. Intricate geometric patterns were also rather popular.
The Phulkari embroidery is done by straight darn stitches. The stitches are actually worked on the wrong side of the cloth. The pattern takes shape on the right side. The main surface of the stitches are about a quarter or half centimetre long while they are very minute on the reverse. Using long and short darn stitches, women create innumerable designs. Shading and variation are achieved by expertly using horizontal, vertical or diagonal stitches. This gives the illusion of more than one shade when viewed from different angles.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhosXo6B2ycD8u2tJwouEqAx9W2J202z3HXEWJ_Fw6P2bnx5vTj-96o6K4Gk_IqSFuo1R4pPujJAgZFJMjhaUCE43HJWtC4OC_IG1h8tGDh-pVT3vS3DIsx23J9yMtfLl7O16UwKiwBI78/s400/Embroidery%20019.jpg)
Earlier, the women never traced any patterns on the cloth. They just carefully counted the stitches to create a design. In the absence of a traced pattern, the designs generally passed on from mothers to daughters. Along with the daily chores, a daughter learned phulkari from her mother and contributed to her wedding trousseau.This embroidery was such an integral part of the women of Punjab that one reads or hears of many folklores and songs describe the joys, dreams and yearnings of young girls while embroidering Phulkari.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqx0YhM8pPGkrGbqmmc4xCgDdQvxw5Cnbnk0uz5IehfyUXtg0hFBKR8mXuC6l3u8maPmbCZz_8VEdsOrVQE-bMbn31CaeFCme5Rwc02YyM3MVI0_adw7HEBINHQWwtd9Vt5cmhz8cXgY/s400/Embroidery%20014.jpg)
This craft was never meant for commercial purpose. A Phulkari embroidered shawl was considered to be a gift for young brides. But now this art thrives as cottage industry. There is a decline in Phulkaris embroidered at home. Now, many men have learned this craft and sell Phulkari embroidered bedspreads and curtains, cushion covers and wall hangings. Now Phulkaris are also done on sarees and kurtas and machine embroidered Phulkari dupattas are readily available in the markets at cheaper prices. This obviously has harmed the skilled Phulkari workers. But most importantly, a mother's love for her daughter, which was so painstakingly expressed in the hand crafted designs, has gone completely.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSNpbrzTdPh-TgwnzCrR7aXxcmBmQU3Q7FOmt6oGZJ-haoiteyZRKgQGzDrWI_Org4t8jNZ2jH-9LYoQeJL8V_7Ey0zWVi2NrsznrK0MuXpTl9LfOKjyIoWLcNdrCAYbnJMSpNtqYJRmo/s400/Embroidery%20013.jpg)
Bride Photograph courtesy: www.vdiembroidery.com
Posted By Aparna
Posted By Aparna